A one-day trip from Hanoi to Con Sơn Pagoda, Kiep Bac and Nguyen Trai
“Put on some comfortable shoes” they said. Or at least that’s what I had understood. Being exposed to culture and language for only a week time, the main means of communication are still gestures, Google translate and pointing at things. My host granddad’s finger pointing on the 6 on the clock, we set out for our one-day adventure when I myself was still incapable of having a single clear thought, whilst locals were already bright-eyed and bushy-tailed, offering crackers and vodka shots. “We” being around thirty Vietnamese people from the neighborhood – and me: German, blond, 24 years old. What a thrilling adventure for everybody.
After a tiring three hour bus ride and the obligatory Phở breakfast at a crowded service area, we arrived at our first destination: Con Sơn Pagoda. And what a destination it is! 
An area of about 30 ha2 covered in stunning pagodas and temples, under the eyes of the impressive temple-overlooking statue of Buddha. My one and only English-speaking companion explains: between 1380-1442, this place was home to Nguyen Trai, a famous Vietnamese poet, writer and general, who throughout the 15th century successfully fought the Chinese Ming dynasty. So quite a historically significant place I am about the see. Once I had taken off my shoes, I was allowed to enter the buildings. Far-reaching golden designs and massive paintings cover the 15 m high walls. The sound of bells and drums played by a monk sitting on a prayer rug at the back of the room give the place a hypnotising ambience. Many people kneel to pray, others bring offerings to the front. Analysing the things on the altar, the European might not fully understand what Buddha is going to do with so many cans of Coca Cola, Heineken or Choco Cupcakes - but surely this too has its religious explanation. At any rate, the altar and the massive Buddha statues behind it are mind-blowing. Every visitor in the room seems inside-focused, dedicating all his attention to the mightful statue surveiling the room. As I leave the room to discover other areas, the vast size of the site unfolds. One pagoda follows the other, up a steep hill upon which the impressive, stone-made Buddha statue can be seen. What an impressive place this is!
It was not before an extensive, 8-dish-lunch that we continue our journey towards Kiep Bac. Once we arrive there we realize that we were lucky enough to witness the annual Bánh-Giay-Making competition - more Vietnamese impossible! About half a dozen individual groups working high-speed, trying to light a fire, cook rice, run through the temple area, beat any structure out of the rice to eventually form it to a Bánh Giay – a rice pie. The winner earns fame and glory. Naturally.
The following temple tour once again provides astonishing views on much smaller, but nevertheless very authentic pagodas. Fumes of a thousand (!) incense sticks fill the air, sounds of monks playing bells and drums and an infinite number offering plates, decorated with fruits, drinks, cigarettes and money… Amazing!
What makes this even more intense is the fact that literally everyone is giving the white man attention. People stare and mumble without consideration, fathers present me to their daughters, teenage girls shyly ask for pictures or simply to touch my hair. It’s an acquired taste, but simply something I will have to get used to, as my 17-year-old Vietnamese companion explains.
Finally, we set forth to our next destination: Nguyen Trai Pagoda. As opposed to our previous stops, here there are plenty of locals present, in form of market vendors, craftsmen and visitors. It’s a beautiful colorful walk in midst of two lakes that leads us to the great doors of Nguyen Trai. Inside the patio we find a compact temple with several flower-packed rooms and a nice little garden in the backyard. In front of the pagoda men are positioning about a dozen life-sized horses made of paper as well as a gigantic paper dragon, which, together with the picturesque altar in the middle of the patio, create a wonderful outlook. 
Wandering off through the descending sun, we face the end of our long and fascinating day. The day of my first encounter with Vietnam’s ancient culture and tradition. A day I will never forget.
- - - - - - - - - - - -
Drawn your interest?!
If you are travelling from Hanoi to Halong Bay and are interested in visiting these pagodas, feel free to name your wishes in our Tailor-made Tours or directly to our guides.